Bansko – Bulgaria

For the last few years, some friends have converged to a ski resort for a week. Past trips include Cervinia (Matterhorn) and Val d’Isère (the three valleys). This year, inspired by my long weekend in Sofia in September, I suggested we hit Bansko in Bulgaria.

For one thing, Bulgaria is very reasonably priced. For example, our transfer to Zurich from Val d’Isère last year took about five hours and was a set price of 80€ per person. The transfer from Sofia airport to our resort was just 100€ for seven people.

The pistes are not extensive like the three valleys, and there are only a couple of black runs. But for three days on the slopes, we were all happy. From novice to expert there is something for everyone. One piste on the way back is seven kilometres long and its a very nice easy run in the afternoon.

I was advised by a friend to buy the priority pass for the gondola. As of 2019, the normal ticket for 3 days is 180 Lev. The priority is 240 Lev and it is very worth while. This will save you at least an hour of queueing for the ride up to the slopes. The gondola ride itself takes about 20 minutes.

One thing though is the food on the slopes… The canteen options are what can only be imagined as a very budget USSR canteen for mutants. Simon and I took one glance from the door way and about turned. That is something I will never un-see. Think very un nutritious. I wouldn’t feed an animal that.

I highly recommend that you visit the VIP Room for lunch – and its best to make a booking. Lunch will be around 40-50€ and well worth it. We had a birthday boy with us and the VIP Room presented him with a massive cake and a trick candle that kept re-lighting (its the little touches). Plus they have boot warmers and will give you slippers for the restaurant. The treat of putting on warm boots ready to hit the slopes for the afternoon is amazing.

We had a fantastic guy for our transfer – Svetlio (+359 88 7485174) – he collected us from the airport, was totally fine that we had a couple of people delayed due to snow. He took us to Decathlon for sports gear, Lidl for food shopping, a service station for beers for the journey and also toilet breaks (necessary after the beers!). On the way back, my flight was a couple of hours after the main group, so he was happy to take me into Sofia, wait for me and return me in time for my flight in the afternoon. Svetlio looked up details for us to ensure that everything ran as smoothly as possible.

We stayed at Predela apartments – which initially I booked via air bnb and then directly with Jane Dickinson – she manages a couple of the apartments there. The location of our apartments was excellent. Only 200m walk to the gondola and there is a ski hire shop in the complex which will charge you 20Lev a day for boots, poles & skis.

View from Predela apartments

And of course a ski holiday is never complete without a massage or two. Across from our apartments, there is the Sport Hotel – and they offer a range of services. I had my first HAMAN – what a treat after a hard day of skiing. All hotels require pre-booking and payment for spa and services.

Do take some Bulgarian Lev cash with you – some places just don’t accept cards – or if they do, it might not be the card type you have. It’s better to be sure.

Bilbao / San Sebastian

If you like tapas (known as pinxtos in the Basque region) and amazing architecture then this is your dream destination. The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao is totally out of this world. The shapes of light that dance through the building is more then worthy of a visit (and yes, they do have great art to admire).

But oh the display of food! I do remember thinking that I wish I had more stomachs. Greedy I know. But when you visit, you might easily feel the same. How the locals aren’t wider then taller is beyond me.

It is very easy to take a coach to San Sebastian for a day or two. And to earn your pinxtos for the day; climb Mount-urgull and admire the view.

The beach is pristine and well worth a visit, you can stroll along the sidewalk if you’re adverse to sand…

Amsterdam NYE

My friends who live in Amsterdam say that is more of a small village then a city. I guess the ease of transportation (cycling, trams or by foot) does produce this ambiance.

If you get the chance, take a boat ride! Luckily for me, some of my friends have boats and love to show people around the town on the water. During the winter months, Amsterdam has a Festival Of Lights show which is best seen from the water.

I prefer celebrating New Years Eve in Amsterdam rather then London for several reasons – primarily as I have a number of amazing friends there. It is easy to get around, the music is 2000% better and the crowd are always friendly. There is of course the matter of their love of fireworks. This is on another whole level.

We watched the fireworks from a roof top garden in the Pijp on the NYE itself and we had 360 degree views. The spectacular lasted in earnest well over forty minutes! And petered out through the next day.

For New Years Day itself, I went to Thuishaven with friends. Marcus is a professional photographer and has a studio within the complex and knew pretty much every person that works there. This resulted in us having backstage access, our own private room and free everything.

Thuishaven is set in a huge circus fairground, and has several tents hosting great DJs and a jumping crowd. The music was excellent and after several hours of dedicated dancing, I was exhausted. The site hosts parties during the summer which I think I will visit this year.

Rome – December 2018

I love Italy, and this was my third visit to Rome. I highly recommend visiting this beautiful city (and all of Italy – from the top to the bottom of the heel is amazing).

There is a saying about Rome – that if you lived there your entire life there, you would not see everything. For historians, this is a mecca. For everyone, its majestic.

This time, my prerogative was to see my friends, but I managed to slip in some cultural sights too – Saint Peters and several beautiful fountains and streets.

Amazing sculpture
Amazing sculpture
St Peters Entrance
St Peters
St Peters
Inside St Peters
St Peters Entrance
Le Swiss Guards

I walked from my hotel (on via Cola di Rienzo) over a bridge to the Spanish steps. Then to the Trevi fountain. It was packed with tourists so I recommend to go early!

About twenty years ago, I met a lady – Roberta, in India. Immediately I felt comfortable with her company. She is one of my tribe. We have kept in touch over the years and I have seen her on my visits to Rome. Meeting again was like no years had passed and we shared stories, about our friends, our travels and Netflix recommendations. It was just as we had seen each other yesterday.

Also I had another dear friend there – Giovanna. I wanted to catch up with who was in Rome for three months and is originally from Colombia. We met in flamenco classes in Madrid. She is very interesting person. Trained phycologist and wonderful dancer too. I was with her and her family for Christmas for 2017 in Colombia.

Argentina – November 2018

It’s a little daunting travelling to a foreign country alone and only having a very basic knowledge of the local language. But it’s also very exciting and eye opening. I highly recommend this experience to you.

I fell in love with Argentina immediately. Even though the rain was torrential on my arrival into Buenos Aires, my spirit was not dampened in the slightest. My cab ride from the airport was about an hour, and the downpour had been so intense that I had to leap frog over a small river from the car to the sideway at my hotel. The taxi driver was suitably impressed that I was fluent in Spanglish. So much so that he insisted on reversing his cab to a position to facilitate unloading of my luggage.

If you appreciate great food and amazing Malbec wines, then Argentina is the place for you.

I highly recommend the Hotel Clasico. The hotel is in Palermo – a barrio (suburb) of Buenos Aries that is very central. The Subtle (under ground station) – Palermo is about 10 minutes’ walk away). The shower was full and warm. The bed was very comfortable. And the sound proofing was the best out of the hotels that I stayed in.

The staff were kind and forgiving of my second-rate Spanish. Additionally, breakfast was included – options of yogurt with fruit or huevos (eggs) with salmon – and a very generous portion. Good coffee to start you off for the day.

Conveniently across the road from the Clasico hotel, is an excellent seafood restaurant – La Pescadorita (Ph. 4773-0070). Adorned with a load of fisherman memorabilia and pretty fairy lights hanging from the ceiling, along with a merman at the front door. They offer delivery too.

What to do in Buenos Aires

Well you Tango. And thus, visit the Milongas – tango dances. There are several on every day from around 2pm. Download the application ‘Hoy Milonga’ to get the latest available classes and dances per day. You can just go to watch if you are not particular to dancing. There are rules to follow at these events. Men will make eye contact with the ladies to offer a dance. Well three to be precise. You respond with a nod of your head to indicate your interest. Between the three dances, some different (and un-tango style music) played between each set – such as rock or jive.

The Artes museum is a lovely place to visit, the red building is quite spectacular – holding international art as well as local art of South America. It’s a beautiful building and well worth a visit. I particularly liked the sculpture from the local artists. They have a number of pieces by Rodin, Gaurguin, Turner and other impressionists. The entry (as of 2018) is 100 Pesos (2.20£).

Visiting a Tango show is a must – there are several options available, I went to Senior Tango with my friends and it was spectacular. Don’t bother with the dinner option as you will find better food and vino at a restaurant beforehand and the prices at the shows are highly inflated.

Buenos Aires Dog walker

Café La Biela is a great cafe to watch passers-by and is situated just across from the Recoleta cemetery.

Recoleta cemetery is definitely worth a visit – it hosts very beautiful crypts, including Evita’s.

You will notice a number of dog walkers – with a full pack of hounds on leading them through the streets.

On Saturdays and Sundays, there is a market outside of the Recoleta cemetery. There are beautiful hand-crafted earrings, bottle holders and bags for sale. Don’t be shy to haggle. I think the sellers actually like a bit of bargaining.

El Calafete

One of the most beautiful things to see in this world is the Perito Moreno glacier. There is an excellent path way that will take you very close to the glaciers edge, where you can see and hear the ice fall into the freezing waters. It’s a beautiful sight and photos just don’t do it justice! Quite frequently, parts will break off with a loud crack and fall into the icy waters. The glacier grows two metres per day but also loses that, so for the moment its stable(ish).

Perito Moreno glacier

If you are feeling adventurous, then take a horse ride around the hills of El Calafete. You can organise this via agencies, or just find a local ranch and ask directly.

Gaucho Style
Horse riding in Patagonia

Vienna

On my second visit to Vienna, I had an epiphany, I don’t holiday. I mission. My first visit was to ice skate. And see as much as I could…. this included – eating the World famous sacher torte – a very rich chocolate cake – invented by Austrian Franz Sacher in 1832 for Prince Wenzel von Metternich.

On that first visit, I indulged in a horse drawn cart ride through the city. The driver kept leaning back to share secrets about the city – but frankly I could only understand every second or third word (there was a lot of smiling and nodding in response). Also I visited a couple of art galleries, trouped through the beautiful streets, shopped just a little and ate my way through the city.

My second and further visits were slightly more relaxed, but still at 100 mile per hour.

The Spanish Riding School of Vienna is certainly a beautiful thing to see. The horses are from Slovenia originally. They were instrumental in battle and are very nimble. Photography is strictly forbidden and the staff very quickly stop any happy snappers.

Vienna’s ice rink is in front of the parliament square – the Rathaus – a beautiful building. And the primary rink is right in front. Ice paths circle around beautiful sculptures and trees.

Ice skating in Vienna
Ice skating in Vienna

If you like Vienna, consider a trip to Seville, Bilbao, Rome and Budapest.

Amsterdam – King & Queens Day

Ten visits to Amsterdam for King & Queens day warrants its own special place. Each one was unique and perfectly exhausting.

The tradition for this time is to wear orange (this comes from the L’Orange royal family). For 90% of the population, its not a good look. And being a ginger, its definitely not the best colour for my tepid complexion.

Take a ukulele clubbing! (Pete is a litte pissed off – he had broken his wires… three times. Ahem)

King’s Day carnival is held on 27 April (his official birthday – Queen’s day was the pre-cursor for this and shuffled to the last weekend of April, but after the Queen’s abdication the new King set it to his birthday). More then a million people tumble into the streets and onto the canals to paint the town orange at one of the world’s biggest street parties. You can see live jazz, techno, R & B and other sorts of music displays on the streets.

Athens

If you’re a history buff like me, or just like a bit of old stuff, then you’ll definitely want to add Athens, Greece to your travel bucket list. This ancient city is packed full of stunning sights, delicious food, and unforgettable experiences.

First up, let’s talk about the food. If you’re a meat lover, then you’re in for a treat. Greek food is renowned for its lamb dishes, and they did not disappoint. I had the pleasure of trying some of the most succulent and flavorful lamb I’ve ever tasted, slow-cooked to perfection with herbs and spices. Whether you’re trying a traditional gyro, souvlaki, or kleftiko, you’re in for a mouth-watering treat.

Now, onto the sights. You simply cannot visit Athens without checking out the Parthenon on Acropolis. Side note: The Acropolis is the high hill that the Parthenon was built on. This ancient temple is one of the most iconic landmarks in Greece and is a must-see for anyone visiting Athens. Below the structure, the Acropolis museum resides in parallel, many of the carvings have been preserved inside – away from environmental damage, and it is easy to see how the structure may have been in its heyday. At night, the Parthenon is lit up like a magnificent jewel.

But the Acropolis is just the beginning. Athens and the surrounding islands are full of museums and artefacts that will transport you back in time. From ancient pottery to intricate sculptures, their museums do an excellent job of showcasing the history of Greece.

One of my favourite experiences in Athens was visiting the National Archaeological Museum. I spent hours wandering the halls, marvelling at the ancient artefacts on display. From the intricately designed golden masks of Mycenae to the awe-inspiring statues of ancient gods and goddesses, the museum was a treasure trove of history and culture.

Now for the real fun, if you have time, jump on a ferry to one of the many islands. I visited the Island of Hyrda and enjoyed a beautiful Mediterranean lunch at the Ostria Restaurant, serving fresh seafood.

I hired a quad bike which was a hefty little power horse. Initially, I was quite nervous and started out like a little old granny, putt putt putting around the roads to various historic sites. By the end of the day, my confidence had grown somewhat and I was now hooning around the place with my hair trailing behind.

As someone who loves to learn about the history and different cultures, Athens was an absolute dream come true. The city is full of rich history, stunning architecture, and delicious food, and I can’t recommend it enough. So if you’re looking for your next travel destination, make sure to add Athens to your list – you won’t regret it!

I stayed with a lovely guy – Yannis through Airbnb. He is a gracious host and has two adorable cats. You can find his home here: https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/2948623?source_impression_id=p3_1679402729_KDwxTFZtqEIkFAWi

Budapest

Budapest is a beautiful city steeped in history, the city was named as such in 1873 with the convergence of three neighbouring cities – Pest, Buda and Óbuda.

Besides the beautiful Parliament Building, which is positioned on the river in the Pest side of the city, there is an abundance of beautiful buildings to see there. The best viewing of the Parliament Building is from across the river from the Buda Castle.

Without doubt a visit to Budapest is not complete without a visit to the New York New York cafe – touted as the most beautiful cafe in the World. And when you visit you will probably agree.

New York New York Cafe Ceiling

The Central Market Hall is very interesting, you will find an assortment of fresh food and oddly shaped salamis (Hungarians really love salami), as well as traditional clothing.

Note that nothing much is open on Sundays, so you might want to buy a snack for breakfast on Saturday to tide you over until you can find a restaurant.

I wasn’t aware at the time, but Budapest has an extensive thermal spa pool (Széchenyi) and is apparently quite well known for it. So definitely pack your swimmers for this visit! There are three pools outside and indoors there are fifteen smaller mineral pools that are known for their remedial benefits (however the smell might put you off a little). Towels are available for hire, so if you can, take one along and also a swimming cap.

We stayed at the Corinthia Palace. Breakfast is quite amazing – but as it should be for 30€ per person!! That does include à la carte and the largest breakfast buffet I have ever seen. Chefs cook fresh pancakes, waffles, bacon etc which can be washed down with a glass of bubbles.

You can also find one of the World’s most stunning church’s – St Stephen’s Basilica, definitely worthy of a visit. It’s ornate Neoclassical interior is stunning and it is very easy to spend several hours admiring the craftsman ship.

Madrid

I truly love Madrid and have visited several times. One trip I went for a week to attend Flamenco and Spanish classes. The Flamenco class every day for three hours. Some girls dance for six or more! It’s hard work.

The Flamenco school had several rooms and the class that I was in had about nine students. All stamping away in rhythm. The room had a wall of glass that would fog up and eventually start dripping from condensation. Our teacher would stand in the corner with a cane, first demonstrating the steps to take and then tapping her cane to the beat to keep us in time.

Public transport is very cheap in Madrid – it’s only a couple of Euros to get from the airport to the centre. Wear comfortable shoes because you will do a lot of walking.

One of my favourite hotels is the Vincci Capitol Hotel – the location is excellent (next to Callao metro) with modern decor. It features a roof top terrace overlooking the city with sun lounges. My bedroom was fantastic – mood lighting options included ‘relax’ and ‘awake’ as well as being adjustable. There is a beautiful bar with a view of Calle Gran Via – its easy to just watch the traffic snake through the city.

The best shopping area in Madrid is Chueca. There are several shops brimming with clothes, shoes and furniture. One a visit in 2007, I bought a side table but the shop couldn’t provide shipping so I schlepped it back myself. I’d like to mention that the table’s top is glass and I was totally expecting it to be smashed to smithereens – but was very pleasantly surprised to unwrap it unscathed.

A visit to Museum del Prado is a must – it houses an extensive collection of Goya, Diego Velázquez and Rubens. The Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando (founded in 1744) has a great collection of sculpture, modern art and a truckload of religious relics. The Royal Palace is an amazing building with over 3000 rooms! A stroll through the gardens is very relaxing.

Madrileñas speak very rapidly so you might find them to be one of the more difficult Spanish accents to understand.