Gastronomic | With Love From Mel

May 10, 2023May 19, 2023

Brazil – Rio and Iguazu Falls

The first thing that hit me in Rio de Janeiro, was the humidity – it was like a thick blanket of heat and moisture that surrounded me as soon as I stepped out of the airport. And then there were the taxis – every driver was hawking their services, trying to get my attention. My hotel had included a pickup service and I was ushered to a waiting taxi efficiently.

The friendliness of the Brazilians (and South Americans in general) was lovely. And the best part? Everything was so cheap! A pedicure is £5 – £10 and a massage for £30. Uber rides barely broke over the £2 mark.

The locals are very friendly, although communication can be difficult if you are not fluent in Portuguese.
Knowing some Spanish has certainly helped me navigate through my holiday.

My pedicurist insisted that I get some “chinelo” (which sounds like Chanel, the brand), and she even came with me to purchase some just outside the parlour. Another client kindly lent me her own pair so I wouldn’t mess up my fresh nail polish to purchase my first pair of Havanas.

The highlights of day one included the Science Museum (The Museum of Tomorrow), The Portuguese Reading Room and stumbling upon Mariam Restaurant on Rue de Rosario. They had the most incredible filet mignon steak (and would you believe it was a buffet – something I have always shied away from). I also tried some chicken and salad, everything is priced by weight. There was this lovely young lady who was with her mum at the restaurant, eager to practice her English and she walked me through the extensive buffet, explaining each item.

I have a friend who lives there and is very passionate about Rio and the Brazilian culture – even belonging to a Samba School. His recommendations were priceless, and I will share some with you. He did mention the Portuguese Reading Room when he discovered I was close by. Additionally, some fantastic off-the-beaten-track food venues.

Two notable restaurants – Galeto Sat’s for the best chicken in the World and Sabor Peruano for fresh Peruvian ceviche. Both are very affordable and unmissable. As I sat eating the most delicious chicken, I have ever had at Galeto Sat’s, I had the realisation that no chicken will ever taste as good. I did show a shop attendant at one of the Casa Pedro’s franchise tea, spice and herb shops a photo of that chicken and he pointed me to something that did smell very similar. (Unfortunately, though, whilst good, just not Galeto Sat’s)

I also enjoyed a high-end Chef’s table-tasting menu at Lasai. The setting is perfect for a solo traveller as there is a common marble table set out around the cooking. It is lovely to watch the action of seven highly trained chefs at work, sometimes with tweezers to place decorations, describing each dish in your language, they are welcoming of questions. The menu is more vegetable based but does include some meat. They are very accommodating of food intolerances or preferences.

There is a very famous Bossa Nova Jazz club which I went to – Little Club and enjoyed traditional authentic Brazilian Jazz.

The botanical gardens in Rio are lovely, my favourites were the orchid conservatory and the pond with the famously large water lilies. If you are a foreign visitor, you will need cash to buy your entry fee.

Taking a two-night break away from Rio, I visited Foz Iguazu (Iguazu Falls) and it was magnificent. The number and variety of butterflies are incredible, and the falls are impressive. I took a helicopter ride and it was worth every penny. I recommend visiting both the Argentinian and the Brazilian sides if you have travelled that far, well it would be rude not to! You will have to cross the border to do so and that’s fairly painless, but ensure you have your passport and crossing into Brazil in the year 2023, your Covid pass ready to show.

A huge highlight was the last 15 minutes in Rio – I got to see a Bateria!!! (this is drumming and percussion) practice at a traditional Samba School – this is the band for the event of the Brazilian year – Carnival. My flight home was leaving at 9:40 and I had to leave at 8:15 and no later, but I assure you I wanted to stay longer. Upon arrival back into the UK, I immediately investigated Bateria practice events here and have joined one!

At night do be careful of your mobile phone or valuables and never walk on the beach after dark.

You can enjoy a magnificent sunset from the rocks on Ipanema Beach, get there around 4pm in May — times will differ according to when you travel.

Ipanema and Leblon beaches are generally safer for your valuables than Cococabana, do not take your phone or bags unless you know for sure someone in your group will be with your possessions at all times. I did not take my phone with me and was very thankful as it was obvious that some “opportunist” took a little look through my towel on the Ipanema beach for valuables.

I took a walking tour by https://freewalkertours.com/ and it was great to have a local resident (known as Carioca) point out the streets – visiting the former home of Carmen Miranda in a street with extremely tall doors – the reason for which was to house your horses as you didn’t leave them out on the street!

A bonus travel note about Mobile data – I discovered eSim Apps on this trip — as long as your phone is unlocked, you can install an app (such as Alo Air) and purchase a set amount of data for your country. This is fantastic for locating your destinations and keeping in touch with friends and family via WhatsApp etc. I will use it in the future for sure!

September 14, 2021September 14, 2021

Newcastle Upon Tyne

Being a Novocastrian (but from New-Newcastle Australia), I thought it time to visit Newcastle England. I don’t know why it’s called Newcastle Upon Tyne, or Newcastle Gateshead… there is a Gateshead, a Jesmond, and a Wallsend in both the English and Australian versions. Regardless, the locals loved hearing I am from Newcastle Australia, even got discounts.

The town is quite pretty – with many buildings similar to the brownstones in Edinburgh, but thrown in is the University with ultra-modern and sleek buildings. The Sage building is quite beautiful with undulating curves, it is a conference and performance centre.

I was there for four days, and pretty much crossed off every notable tourist attraction – the Castle and the keep, the mini Sydney Harbour bridge, Sunday Market at the Quay, the art galleries, shopping high street, and even went to Bingo!

If you go to Newcastle, you must visit the Biscuit Factory art gallery – all the pieces are for sale, and reasonably priced, ranging from £100 to £8000. Their collection is breathtaking. If you had to choose between the Laing and the Biscuit Factory, definitely go the latter!

Down Grey street, there are a couple of independent art shops (Castle Fine Art in particular) which are worth a visit. I had to exit quickly before I purchased something. Unfortunately due to restricted time openings, I missed the Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art Gallery – so if someone has been to both the Biscuit Factory and the Baltic and the latter is better – do let me know!

Close to Newcastle is a beautiful place on the coast – Tynemouth with a proper sand beach. There is a restaurant on the beach – Riley’s Fish Shack. You can watch the waves roll in and listen as they break on the shore whilst you warm your digits over your private fire pit and of course, eat fantastic seafood.

December 30, 2019January 24, 2020

Christmas in Casablanca

Rather then stay in London for a typically over indulgent damp Christmas or fly to the other side of the World for a hot (and again) over indulgent Christmas, I decided to do something completely different: a Yoga retreat in Casablanca. And it was fabulous!

After some research into what was available around Europe and Morocco, I found a six day retreat at Om Yoga in Casablanca. Flights are not cheap at Christmas time (£550 with Air Maroc). But it was totally worth it – the villa is lovely, the yoga excellent and the staff make every effort to make you feel comfortable. The package (€ 1,390) included a private room, three vegetarian meals per day, a Hammam at the Mosque and unlimited Yoga. Airport transfer was also included – which is very helpful if you are not fluent in Arabic or French.

Om Yoga in Casablanca has three pristine studios – even the room used for aerial yoga and Bikram didn’t smell of the typical sweaty locker rooms that seem to go hand in hand with other Bikram studios that I have scuttled past.

There is a wide variety of yoga classes (Yin, Aerial, Power, Vinyasa, Ashtanga, Hatha, Bikram, Wall (yes there is such a thing)), provided by well trained teachers (Pablo Ruiz and Ahlam Khafi were my personal favourites). Over the holiday period, there was a reduced number of classes but I still managed five and a half hours of yoga in one day. Something to note; many of the classes are instructed in French – with about 10% English when the teacher remembers that not everyone is French speaking. So having some experience in yoga classes (or being fluent in French) is highly recommended.

The Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca is totally outstanding – it can hold 25,000 people inside and the craftsmanship is breathtaking. Beneath you can enjoy an authentic Hammam with three rooms of varying heat.

For Christmas day itself, Om Yoga provided a special Christmas meal for us which included a typical Moroccan dish – Pastilla (spiced chicken wrapped in flaky pastry and sweetened with cinnamon and icing sugar).

Casablanca itself is quite polluted, the diesel fumes can be overwhelming, but the beaches are clean and the waves are powerful. Before dawn each morning, hundreds of soccer players practice their skills on the sand – which makes an early morning beach walk a little nerve racking as you have to be on alert for stray soccer balls.

Two restaurants to look for in Casablanca are Le Bistrot and Basmane – coincidently they are right next door to each other. Both had excellent service and food.

I had a couple of days after the retreat to explore… so took a train to Marrakech for one day – definitely not long enough (so I guess I will just have to go back!). Book premier class as the train takes about three hours and the comfort is worthwhile – plus your seat is guaranteed (not so in 2nd class) . Marrakech is a very colourful city and definitely a shopper’s mecca. If you see something you like, stop immediately because the chances of locating that shop again are slim – however don’t show too much interest as haggling is a sport in Morocco.

A nice lady from Vienna in our yoga group had been to Marrakech a couple of times and recommended the Zeitoun Cafe – it has a great view over the market square and the staff are friendly and accommodating. It is an excellent place to get your bearings and prepare yourself for the rattle snake charmers, acrobats, drummers, monkeys and the hustle bustle of the Marrakech souks.

Visit Dar El Bacha – Musee des Confluences in Marrakech (entry is 60 Dirhams) – artefacts include historic caftans, vases from China and relics from Columbia. It hosts a stunning cafe offering coffee from all around the world. The architecture and tile designs are marvellous.

Worthy of a visit is the Yves Saint Laurent garden – a beautiful green sanctuary in the heart of the bustling city centre (entry for International guests is 70 Dirhams). Go early as it does get very busy.

In both Casablanca and Marrakech it’s a good practice to agree a price with a taxi driver before getting into the car (the Petit Taxi drivers in Casablanca are adamant for you to NOT wear a seat belt…. and the way they drive well… I definitely prefer to have some sort of safety assurance when two lanes become three… and then four. For short trips around each city pay no more then 20/40 Dirhams. Take some back up cash in the local currency but note that the duty free shops at the airport only accept Euros or USD. We found that some cards just don’t work at every automatic teller.

October 6, 2019January 24, 2020

Seville

After just a couple of hours in Seville, I was asking myself, why had I not visited before? The city is magnificent! The architecture is pure eye candy and being October with the northern hemisphere hurtling towards bitter winter, having 30C days with bright blue skies was wonderful. Seriously considering a yearly pilgrimage.

It’s very easy to get around as the city centre is compact and flat, there are hire cycles, trams and an extensive bus service. Take the bus from the airport – it makes a couple of stops in Seville and is about 40 minutes to the final stop at Plaza de Armas. One way is 4€ and its possible to buy a return for 6€. Tickets are purchased at the airport bus stop or from the driver on board.

No visit to Seville would be complete without visiting a flamenco show or two. I prefer the more rustic performances over the glamorous touristic shows. I pre-booked a show for Friday at El Callejón del Embrujo which is very central. The dancers and band were both excellent. A glass of vino and one tapa is included in the price for 20€. Don’t opt for a dinner and show package at venues because you will get a better and more affordable meal at a restaurant nearby.

It is a must to visit Alcázar – rich in history hosting three palaces. It is breath-taking in detail. There are beautiful sculptured gardens and you are allowed to stay as long as you like. There is a restaurant is inside the gardens with peacocks strolling around the tables.

Purchase Alcázar tickets online prior to the day because you will waste hours lining up – the queue is ridiculously long and moves very slowly. I didn’t realise this and on my last day wanted to visit so the only way to avoid the queue was to join a guided tour group for 36.50€. The online tickets without a tour are less then 10€ – buy tickets from the Alcázar web site . Note that entry is free on Mondays!

I visited the ancient baths for a 3-hour session, there are five pools as well as a roof top infinity pool for after your treatment – so pack your swimmers. Access to the pools is included with a treatment – although not cheap but compared to London prices was value especially with the baths. The massage areas are separated by hanging curtains, so you do hear the whispers and movements of others. It is a very relaxing experience nonetheless.

If you like Seville then consider visiting Rome, Vienna and Bilbao.

May 20, 2019January 24, 2020

Paris in May

More a year ago I purchased two tickets to go and see Ravi Shankar’s daughter – Anoushka Shankar – undisputedly they are the World’s best Sitar players. The venue was Paris. Unbeknownst to many people, Anoushka is the half sister of Nora Jones…. a more familiar name.

The two sisters collaborated in creating one of the most beautiful songs – Traces of You. Listen to that and your heart will sing guaranteed.

So anyway I bought two tickets, not knowing who might join me because it’s a unique style of music and perhaps not everyone likes such different variety. Plus the concert is in another country and a year in advance – all things to be considered in fairness.

Unfortunately the person I invited did not like the style one little bit… Nor the country and culture.

On top of that they booked the wrong outgoing train and had to change it in rush when their ticket didn’t work at the gates. Now if you had to change an International train ticket, a mere £40 additional cost is a bargain if you ask me. To also have availability on the preferred train as well! And the seat next to me…. I thought they were lucky…. but people react differently to the World….

What was very insulting was that they checked their phone of my communication to them before they could accept their mistake. What a start to the weekend. Great.

Also I did not realise was that the performance was a collaboration of Phillip Glass & Ravi Shankar – and coincidently I had seen the symphonies of Phillip Glass and the legendary David Bowie in London a couple of weeks prior…. So I saw Mr Glass twice on stage in two weeks. And I just learnt that Phillip Glass has also worked with Aphex Twin! How diverse.

I love Paris, its a magical city with a wide variety of art, landscaped gardens and beautiful architecture. The musee D’orsay is my favourite museum in Paris – the sculptures and paintings and the space itself is beyond words. Treat yourself and eat at the restaurant – it looks much more expensive then what it is and its truly majestic – you are sitting in an art gallery within an art gallery.

Wandering the streets of Paris is always colourful and the Marais is my favourite area. Definitely visit Fleux – https://en.fleux.com/ for shopping. Keep in mind that a lot of their goods are available online for 1/3 the price, but some are not – like their terrariums – definitely not available on line – I have looked!!

Careful on the ordering of steaks in France. They do prefer to serve them still kicking and grazing on the garnish – my friend ordered medium rare, but seriously it was still moving. Unfortunately as the first meal in Paris, it didn’t go down well. At all. Was returned for a couple of more minutes on the grill S’il Vous Plait (and probably spat on).

We stayed at a lovely hotel in the 8th arrondissement at the Le Mathurin Hotel & Spa – about £400 for 3 nights. A great location. Not appreciated by my travelling companion in the slightest.

I learnt an important lesson this trip. Careful who you travel with. If your travelling partner(s) are not open to new experiences, possibly insecure recluses, or even have a touch of borderline personality disorder…. don’t take them. Better to travel Hans Solo.

March 31, 2019January 26, 2020

Thailand

More then twenty people converged to the beautiful Island Koh Lanta for a friend’s 40th birthday. And such an International group it was – Americans, English, French, Togolese, South Africans, Danish, Dutch, Lithuanians, Polish and the token Australian (there’s always one – moi).

From London it is a long way to travel and I recommend you go for more then one week. But due to work commitments I decided to make a dash in and out. I flew into Krabi and then took a taxi over to the island – this involves putting the taxi onto a boat.

I flew into the Krabi a few days before the group was to converge. So was happy to be with my own company, exploring the Island. Find some cows (literally) on the beach and test the local restaurants.

The second night though…. well that is a story. I went out with my trusty Kindle to hunt down dinner. There was a storm coming in, you could feel it in the air and see it in the sky. Thunderous black clouds appeared, the temperature dropped and the monsoon season was saying hello.

The Island lost all power. Street lights were out. Sudden lightening strobed and loud thunder roared. To get home I thought it best to walk on the road. It was a total blackout so I could barely make out a couple of feet in front in the torrential rain. Thinking this was the safer option as I wouldn’t see debris on the beach. Probably trip over a branch or stone, body or something worse.

I had no umbrella, so was dripping wet within minutes…. it’s warm so I told myself, it’s ok , it’s ok, you’re not cold. Just keep moving. Becoming soaked through to the bones with each step. And due to the rain, I couldn’t use my phone for navigation or light.

There were no street lights along the road and the rain was torrential. Cars were coming closer and closer to the sidewalk. When I heard a large lorry trundling towards me, I stepped off onto what I thought was the sidewalk, but unfortunately found a ditch.

A deep ditch. I scrambled up the side of the road as quick as I could as it smelt awful – even in the teeming rain, consequently razing my leg to shreds and trashing my handbag in the process.

Luckily I was only twenty metres from my hotel. I hobbled back and found antiseptic cream to apply after a warm shower. All the time consoling myself with the thought: I’m pretty sure I’m up to date on my tetanus shots. Um, I hope. The next day after the seasonal monsoon, I noticed as I walked around the town that there were dead frogs in the street. Definitely need to check my tetanus shots are in order.

The beaches are gorgeous when the tide is in – but not so much when out. We were just south of Long Beach – and the majority of the group staying at the Koh Lanta Riviera resort.

Besides the welcoming hospitality, the food is one of the best things in Thailand. Very fresh seafood and (obviously) authentic fresh Thai food. The people are extremely congenial and humble. Things are very cheap there. Beer is ridiculously cheep but the selection of wine limited – either red or white. No genre is offered besides the colour.

Do get yourself a massage (or two, or even three) from the many vendors along the beach side. They can work away every trouble as you watch the sun set over the ocean which is just gorgeous.

There is no flushing toilet paper down the toilet – which is not a thing Westerners are used to. So be prepared for that little pearl. Also the showers are very weak, expect a mere dribble at best.

The birthday gal arranged a fantastic boat for us all – a luxurious cruiser – this was magic. The crew were very hospitable, took us to a couple of bays where we could snorkel, take a canoe to the beach, swim or just simply enjoy the generous lunch.

A party of us went to a cooking class for a day and that was a tonne of fun. I highly recommend doing this – Cooking with Mon – you can find him on Trip Advisor. The whole experience is easily five stars. We cooked 4 dishes and stuffed ourselves silly. All the food prep is ready for you to just walk in, be instructed, cook and eat fresh food. All allergies and preferences are catered for.

March 3, 2019January 24, 2020

Jersey

Travelling to Jersey from England is extremely easy. There is no passport control as it is a ‘principle’ of the Crown, so you will pass through just the regular airport security scanning.

Taking a flight from London City Airport is a doddle on a Friday evening and then return on the Sunday afternoon for a nice weekend out of the rat race. Jersey is quiet and relaxed. So upon arriving into the hotel around 9:30pm we were told that there was fifteen minutes to order food or we could chance it out in St Helier.

My travelling companion was Portuguese and we decided to run the gauntlet and head out to “down town” St Helier. You need to know; this is not a party town. This is not a place that stays open till dawn. Restaurants close at 10pm. Sharp.

So, also know that there are a tonne of Portuguese inhabitants in Jersey. Very lucky for us – as we made friends with some local Portuguese and they kindly directed us to a great restaurant – Restaurant Do Porto (Minden Street JE2 4WR, +44 1534 632969).

Go hungry. Go very hungry. The portions are massive and the food is excellent – so you will want to finish. It was so good that we returned on the Saturday night (this time a little more reserved when ordering).

We stayed at the Hotel Savoy (Rouge Bouillon JE2 3ZA, +44 1534 727521). Which is well located and features a lovely open fireplace in the lounge. There is a jazz bar and afternoon tea if you need more food – (breakfast includes both cold and hot dishes).

Jersey is quite small. I think you could walk one end to the other in about four hours. If you visit in the low season (i.e. before end of March if it’s the start of the year), then a lot of attractions are not open. So what to do… well definitely visit the Castle at Gorey – Mont Orgueil Castle. This stronghold has 800 years of history and is quite impressive. The views from the top are superb – take comfortable shoes because you are about to climb.

The one thing you must try is Jersey oysters and the local seafood. Everything is really fresh – oysters, crab, lobster and sea-bass. In Gorey, we visited the Crab Shack and had Oysters and excellent seafood linguine.

On Sunday in St Helier there is an excellent silver service restaurant offering three courses for £27 – Quayside Bistro & Grill (Liberty Wharf JE2 3NY, +44 1534 877004). Service is excellent and the food was perfect.

It would be really lovely in summer time as they have an open deck with stunning views.

January 23, 2019January 29, 2020

Bilbao / San Sebastian

If you like tapas (known as pinxtos in the Basque region) and amazing architecture then this is your dream destination. The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao is totally out of this world. The shapes of light that dance through the building is more then worthy of a visit (and yes, they do have great art to admire).

But oh the display of food! I do remember thinking that I wish I had more stomachs. Greedy I know. But when you visit, you might easily feel the same. How the locals aren’t wider then taller is beyond me.

It is very easy to take a coach to San Sebastian for a day or two. And to earn your pinxtos for the day; climb Mount-urgull and admire the view.

The beach is pristine and well worth a visit, you can stroll along the sidewalk if you’re adverse to sand…

October 10, 2014March 23, 2023

Athens

If you’re a history buff like me, or just like a bit of old stuff, then you’ll definitely want to add Athens, Greece to your travel bucket list. This ancient city is packed full of stunning sights, delicious food, and unforgettable experiences.

First up, let’s talk about the food. If you’re a meat lover, then you’re in for a treat. Greek food is renowned for its lamb dishes, and they did not disappoint. I had the pleasure of trying some of the most succulent and flavorful lamb I’ve ever tasted, slow-cooked to perfection with herbs and spices. Whether you’re trying a traditional gyro, souvlaki, or kleftiko, you’re in for a mouth-watering treat.

Now, onto the sights. You simply cannot visit Athens without checking out the Parthenon on Acropolis. Side note: The Acropolis is the high hill that the Parthenon was built on. This ancient temple is one of the most iconic landmarks in Greece and is a must-see for anyone visiting Athens. Below the structure, the Acropolis museum resides in parallel, many of the carvings have been preserved inside – away from environmental damage, and it is easy to see how the structure may have been in its heyday. At night, the Parthenon is lit up like a magnificent jewel.

But the Acropolis is just the beginning. Athens and the surrounding islands are full of museums and artefacts that will transport you back in time. From ancient pottery to intricate sculptures, their museums do an excellent job of showcasing the history of Greece.

One of my favourite experiences in Athens was visiting the National Archaeological Museum. I spent hours wandering the halls, marvelling at the ancient artefacts on display. From the intricately designed golden masks of Mycenae to the awe-inspiring statues of ancient gods and goddesses, the museum was a treasure trove of history and culture.

Now for the real fun, if you have time, jump on a ferry to one of the many islands. I visited the Island of Hyrda and enjoyed a beautiful Mediterranean lunch at the Ostria Restaurant, serving fresh seafood.

I hired a quad bike which was a hefty little power horse. Initially, I was quite nervous and started out like a little old granny, putt putt putting around the roads to various historic sites. By the end of the day, my confidence had grown somewhat and I was now hooning around the place with my hair trailing behind.

As someone who loves to learn about the history and different cultures, Athens was an absolute dream come true. The city is full of rich history, stunning architecture, and delicious food, and I can’t recommend it enough. So if you’re looking for your next travel destination, make sure to add Athens to your list – you won’t regret it!

I stayed with a lovely guy – Yannis through Airbnb. He is a gracious host and has two adorable cats. You can find his home here: https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/2948623?source_impression_id=p3_1679402729_KDwxTFZtqEIkFAWi