Category: Health

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Christmas in Casablanca

Rather then stay in London for a typically over indulgent damp Christmas or fly to the other side of the World for a hot (and again) over indulgent Christmas, I decided to do something completely different: a Yoga retreat in Casablanca. And it was fabulous!

After some research into what was available around Europe and Morocco, I found a six day retreat at Om Yoga in Casablanca. Flights are not cheap at Christmas time (£550 with Air Maroc). But it was totally worth it – the villa is lovely, the yoga excellent and the staff make every effort to make you feel comfortable. The package (€ 1,390) included a private room, three vegetarian meals per day, a Hammam at the Mosque and unlimited Yoga. Airport transfer was also included – which is very helpful if you are not fluent in Arabic or French.

Om Yoga in Casablanca has three pristine studios – even the room used for aerial yoga and Bikram didn’t smell of the typical sweaty locker rooms that seem to go hand in hand with other Bikram studios that I have scuttled past.

There is a wide variety of yoga classes (Yin, Aerial, Power, Vinyasa, Ashtanga, Hatha, Bikram, Wall (yes there is such a thing)), provided by well trained teachers (Pablo Ruiz and Ahlam Khafi were my personal favourites). Over the holiday period, there was a reduced number of classes but I still managed five and a half hours of yoga in one day. Something to note; many of the classes are instructed in French – with about 10% English when the teacher remembers that not everyone is French speaking. So having some experience in yoga classes (or being fluent in French) is highly recommended.

The Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca is totally outstanding – it can hold 25,000 people inside and the craftsmanship is breathtaking. Beneath you can enjoy an authentic Hammam with three rooms of varying heat.

For Christmas day itself, Om Yoga provided a special Christmas meal for us which included a typical Moroccan dish – Pastilla (spiced chicken wrapped in flaky pastry and sweetened with cinnamon and icing sugar).

  • Our Christmas Tree
  • Pastilla
  • Christmas table

Casablanca itself is quite polluted, the diesel fumes can be overwhelming, but the beaches are clean and the waves are powerful. Before dawn each morning, hundreds of soccer players practice their skills on the sand – which makes an early morning beach walk a little nerve racking as you have to be on alert for stray soccer balls.

Two restaurants to look for in Casablanca are Le Bistrot and Basmane – coincidently they are right next door to each other. Both had excellent service and food.

I had a couple of days after the retreat to explore… so took a train to Marrakech for one day – definitely not long enough (so I guess I will just have to go back!). Book premier class as the train takes about three hours and the comfort is worthwhile – plus your seat is guaranteed (not so in 2nd class) . Marrakech is a very colourful city and definitely a shopper’s mecca. If you see something you like, stop immediately because the chances of locating that shop again are slim – however don’t show too much interest as haggling is a sport in Morocco.

A nice lady from Vienna in our yoga group had been to Marrakech a couple of times and recommended the Zeitoun Cafe – it has a great view over the market square and the staff are friendly and accommodating. It is an excellent place to get your bearings and prepare yourself for the rattle snake charmers, acrobats, drummers, monkeys and the hustle bustle of the Marrakech souks.

Visit Dar El Bacha – Musee des Confluences in Marrakech (entry is 60 Dirhams) – artefacts include historic caftans, vases from China and relics from Columbia. It hosts a stunning cafe offering coffee from all around the world. The architecture and tile designs are marvellous.

Worthy of a visit is the Yves Saint Laurent garden – a beautiful green sanctuary in the heart of the bustling city centre (entry for International guests is 70 Dirhams). Go early as it does get very busy.

In both Casablanca and Marrakech it’s a good practice to agree a price with a taxi driver before getting into the car (the Petit Taxi drivers in Casablanca are adamant for you to NOT wear a seat belt…. and the way they drive well… I definitely prefer to have some sort of safety assurance when two lanes become three… and then four. For short trips around each city pay no more then 20/40 Dirhams. Take some back up cash in the local currency but note that the duty free shops at the airport only accept Euros or USD. We found that some cards just don’t work at every automatic teller.

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Seville

After just a couple of hours in Seville, I was asking myself, why had I not visited before? The city is magnificent! The architecture is pure eye candy and being October with the northern hemisphere hurtling towards bitter winter, having 30C days with bright blue skies was wonderful. Seriously considering a yearly pilgrimage.

It’s very easy to get around as the city centre is compact and flat, there are hire cycles, trams and an extensive bus service. Take the bus from the airport – it makes a couple of stops in Seville and is about 40 minutes to the final stop at Plaza de Armas. One way is 4€ and its possible to buy a return for 6€. Tickets are purchased at the airport bus stop or from the driver on board.

No visit to Seville would be complete without visiting a flamenco show or two. I prefer the more rustic performances over the glamorous touristic shows. I pre-booked a show for Friday at El Callejón del Embrujo which is very central. The dancers and band were both excellent. A glass of vino and one tapa is included in the price for 20€. Don’t opt for a dinner and show package at venues because you will get a better and more affordable meal at a restaurant nearby.

It is a must to visit Alcázar – rich in history hosting three palaces. It is breath-taking in detail. There are beautiful sculptured gardens and you are allowed to stay as long as you like. There is a restaurant is inside the gardens with peacocks strolling around the tables.

Purchase Alcázar tickets online prior to the day because you will waste hours lining up – the queue is ridiculously long and moves very slowly. I didn’t realise this and on my last day wanted to visit so the only way to avoid the queue was to join a guided tour group for 36.50€. The online tickets without a tour are less then 10€ – buy tickets from the Alcázar web site. Note that entry is free on Mondays!

I visited the ancient baths for a 3-hour session, there are five pools as well as a roof top infinity pool for after your treatment – so pack your swimmers. Access to the pools is included with a treatment – although not cheap but compared to London prices was value especially with the baths. The massage areas are separated by hanging curtains, so you do hear the whispers and movements of others. It is a very relaxing experience nonetheless.

If you like Seville then consider visiting Rome, Vienna and Bilbao.

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Budapest

Budapest is a beautiful city steeped in history, the city was named as such in 1873 with the convergence of three neighbouring cities – Pest, Buda and Óbuda.

Besides the beautiful Parliament Building, which is positioned on the river in the Pest side of the city, there is an abundance of beautiful buildings to see there. The best viewing of the Parliament Building is from across the river from the Buda Castle.

Without doubt a visit to Budapest is not complete without a visit to the New York New York cafe – touted as the most beautiful cafe in the World. And when you visit you will probably agree.

New York New York Cafe Ceiling

The Central Market Hall is very interesting, you will find an assortment of fresh food and oddly shaped salamis (Hungarians really love salami), as well as traditional clothing.

Note that nothing much is open on Sundays, so you might want to buy a snack for breakfast on Saturday to tide you over until you can find a restaurant.

I wasn’t aware at the time, but Budapest has an extensive thermal spa pool (Széchenyi) and is apparently quite well known for it. So definitely pack your swimmers for this visit! There are three pools outside and indoors there are fifteen smaller mineral pools that are known for their remedial benefits (however the smell might put you off a little). Towels are available for hire, so if you can, take one along and also a swimming cap.

We stayed at the Corinthia Palace. Breakfast is quite amazing – but as it should be for 30€ per person!! That does include à la carte and the largest breakfast buffet I have ever seen. Chefs cook fresh pancakes, waffles, bacon etc which can be washed down with a glass of bubbles.

You can also find one of the World’s most stunning church’s – St Stephen’s Basilica, definitely worthy of a visit. It’s ornate Neoclassical interior is stunning and it is very easy to spend several hours admiring the craftsman ship.