The first thing that hit me in Rio de Janeiro, was the humidity – it was like a thick blanket of heat and moisture that surrounded me as soon as I stepped out of the airport. And then there were the taxis – every driver was hawking their services, trying to get my attention. My hotel had included a pickup service and I was ushered to a waiting taxi efficiently.
The friendliness of the Brazilians (and South Americans in general) was lovely. And the best part? Everything was so cheap! A pedicure is £5 – £10 and a massage for £30. Uber rides barely broke over the £2 mark.
The locals are very friendly, although communication can be difficult if you are not fluent in Portuguese.
Knowing some Spanish has certainly helped me navigate through my holiday.
My pedicurist insisted that I get some “chinelo” (which sounds like Chanel, the brand), and she even came with me to purchase some just outside the parlour. Another client kindly lent me her own pair so I wouldn’t mess up my fresh nail polish to purchase my first pair of Havanas.
The highlights of day one included the Science Museum (The Museum of Tomorrow), The Portuguese Reading Room and stumbling upon Mariam Restaurant on Rue de Rosario. They had the most incredible filet mignon steak (and would you believe it was a buffet – something I have always shied away from). I also tried some chicken and salad, everything is priced by weight. There was this lovely young lady who was with her mum at the restaurant, eager to practice her English and she walked me through the extensive buffet, explaining each item.
I have a friend who lives there and is very passionate about Rio and the Brazilian culture – even belonging to a Samba School. His recommendations were priceless, and I will share some with you. He did mention the Portuguese Reading Room when he discovered I was close by. Additionally, some fantastic off-the-beaten-track food venues.
Two notable restaurants – Galeto Sat’s for the best chicken in the World and Sabor Peruano for fresh Peruvian ceviche. Both are very affordable and unmissable. As I sat eating the most delicious chicken, I have ever had at Galeto Sat’s, I had the realisation that no chicken will ever taste as good. I did show a shop attendant at one of the Casa Pedro’s franchise tea, spice and herb shops a photo of that chicken and he pointed me to something that did smell very similar. (Unfortunately, though, whilst good, just not Galeto Sat’s)
I also enjoyed a high-end Chef’s table-tasting menu at Lasai. The setting is perfect for a solo traveller as there is a common marble table set out around the cooking. It is lovely to watch the action of seven highly trained chefs at work, sometimes with tweezers to place decorations, describing each dish in your language, they are welcoming of questions. The menu is more vegetable based but does include some meat. They are very accommodating of food intolerances or preferences.
There is a very famous Bossa Nova Jazz club which I went to – Little Club and enjoyed traditional authentic Brazilian Jazz.
The botanical gardens in Rio are lovely, my favourites were the orchid conservatory and the pond with the famously large water lilies. If you are a foreign visitor, you will need cash to buy your entry fee.
Taking a two-night break away from Rio, I visited Foz Iguazu (Iguazu Falls) and it was magnificent. The number and variety of butterflies are incredible, and the falls are impressive. I took a helicopter ride and it was worth every penny. I recommend visiting both the Argentinian and the Brazilian sides if you have travelled that far, well it would be rude not to! You will have to cross the border to do so and that’s fairly painless, but ensure you have your passport and crossing into Brazil in the year 2023, your Covid pass ready to show.
A huge highlight was the last 15 minutes in Rio – I got to see a Bateria!!! (this is drumming and percussion) practice at a traditional Samba School – this is the band for the event of the Brazilian year – Carnival. My flight home was leaving at 9:40 and I had to leave at 8:15 and no later, but I assure you I wanted to stay longer. Upon arrival back into the UK, I immediately investigated Bateria practice events here and have joined one!
At night do be careful of your mobile phone or valuables and never walk on the beach after dark.
You can enjoy a magnificent sunset from the rocks on Ipanema Beach, get there around 4pm in May — times will differ according to when you travel.
Ipanema and Leblon beaches are generally safer for your valuables than Cococabana, do not take your phone or bags unless you know for sure someone in your group will be with your possessions at all times. I did not take my phone with me and was very thankful as it was obvious that some “opportunist” took a little look through my towel on the Ipanema beach for valuables.
I took a walking tour by https://freewalkertours.com/ and it was great to have a local resident (known as Carioca) point out the streets – visiting the former home of Carmen Miranda in a street with extremely tall doors – the reason for which was to house your horses as you didn’t leave them out on the street!
A bonus travel note about Mobile data – I discovered eSim Apps on this trip — as long as your phone is unlocked, you can install an app (such as Alo Air) and purchase a set amount of data for your country. This is fantastic for locating your destinations and keeping in touch with friends and family via WhatsApp etc. I will use it in the future for sure!
